Houston Chronicle

The 10 Best dishes Restaurant Critic Bao Ong ate in April

Carrot Cavatelli from Camaraderie

Bao Ong / Houston Chronicle

Excerpt:

It’s been two months on the job for me as the Chronicle’s new restaurant critic, and the number of memorable dishes keep growing as I’ve checked off more establishments from my list.

Maybe it’s because we’re deep into spring and chefs are using ingredients for lighter dishes (like Shawn Gawle’s spectacular carrot cavatelli).

I haven’t had a chance to try the prix-fixe menu (only available in the main dining room) at this buzzy Heights restaurant, but there’s already a dish that will lure me back to Camaraderie’s lounge: the carrot cavatelli. It’s a stunning orange that simply radiates the moment it lands on your table. The little nubs of pasta show off their vivid color from carrot juice. On top you find slivers of poached carrots, English peas, dollops of pesto made from the carrot tops and finally, a shower of mimolette, the aged French cheese known for its orange hue with a nutty and caramel-like flavor. If there’s a dish that screams springtime, this is it.